The Wave Of PMU Corrections Is Here
Today, I write this article after numerous recent questions about the pigment removal process, particularly after microblading. Questions have been about individual hair strokes being too thick, hairs appearing to have a shadow, undesirable color, and incorrectly positioned brows, among many others.
I wrote a blog a while ago about the importance of preparing for this moment. So did you do it?
Many technicians write to me asking for guidance on correcting or erasing the work using Lightning™ remover since consultations about these issues are rising in their offices.
For these types of problems, there are several solutions, some products help to remove the pigment, and others conceal the error by camouflaging the skin, however, to achieve the desired effect, as a Permanent Makeup Artist, you must know how, when, and on whom to use the appropriate product.
How do you decide on the best solution?
- You want to remove a pigment when you don’t want to apply any brown color on top. If the hair stoke looks thick for doing that, you may use Lightning removal
- You want to camouflage the area if you need extra help in the process of removing or concealing the color in an area where you are not applying a dark color anymore.
- If you want to apply a new color on top, you don’t need to remove or conceal the color, you need to change it.
Read The difference between a touch-up and a correction instead.
Lightning Remover is an alpha and beta hydroxy acids mixture that can help remove the pigment. First, It exfoliates the superficial layers of the skin and then interacts with the pigment. This process helps to generate the extraction of unwanted pigment.
Do several short sessions instead of one or two intensive sessions to achieve optimal results. This process helps you avoid complications related to healing. In some cases, after you remove the pigment, a camouflage treatment may still be required.
Don't use Lighting™ Remover on the eyelids due to the risk of corneal abrasions or burns if the product accidentally enters the eye. This condition will generate discomfort for the client, potential eye damage, and potentially lead to litigation.
Apply LightNing Remover if:
- The color has recently been implanted
- The color is very dark.
- The area is a small part of the eyebrow or lips.
I don’t recommend using it in the entire area because the healing process may cause an unnecessary scar.
How to Use
Dip your needle into Lightning and tap two passes to exfoliate old or fresh unwanted color; it may lighten 50% or more per treatment.
Wait a minimum of 3-4 weeks between treatments for most skin types, and wait 6-8 weeks between treatments for Fitzpatrick 5-6 skin types.
Source: Softap Inc
The correct manual technique to perform good pigment removal is tapping. I don't recommend microblading or a machine.
When applying the pigment remover, you must do minimum taps and control the depth, speed, and pressure. All of these requirements can be met using the Softap® Technique. Microblading and machine application can cause unnecessary trauma, potential scarring, and inadequate results.
Using this pigment remover requires knowledge of the technique and the product and a commitment to the careful execution of the process guided by your professional ethics.
If you want to become an expert in this field
Look for an authorized instructor to teach you removal and corrections.
Do not attempt a treatment you do not know how to do correctly.
If you understand the Softap® technique, look for an advanced class.
If you do not know Softap® at all, do not attempt a lightening or removal with the Lightening™ solution using another method such as microblading or machine.
camouflaging the skin
Camouflage the skin if
- There is a halo around the stroke or around the whole eyebrow.
- After color removal, to conceal the remaining color.
When do I try to camouflage the area?
How do I perform a camouflage procedure?
I mix skin tone with a color aid to get the best result. Most of the time, I use Sandy Beach combined with the correction aid according to the color I am going to camouflage. For example:
●If the color I want to camouflage is reddish, I use seven parts Sandy Beach plus three parts Lime-Aid.
●If the color I want to camouflage is bluish or grayish, I use seven parts Sandy Beach plus three parts Orange-Aid.
●I mix them very well and use them with the Softap® Technique for camouflaging.
The Needles I use
I select needles according to the area I am going to work on. If it is an area in which the color is compact, I choose a 5 or 7-straight-prong needle and work using the criss-cross pattern.
If I want to define one hair, I select a 6-fine curved prong needle or a 16-fine curved prong needle and work along the direction of the hair in a parallel direction to define the hair.
If I want to reduce the bluish or reddish halo around the eyebrow or eyeliner, I use a 9 or 12-straight prong needle and work parallel to the edge of the eyebrow.
Before you do this procedure, you must communicate very well with your client by explaining that it requires several sessions and must be fully completed to see the desired result.
This is because a removal or camouflage procedure in progress can look very bad between treatments. A client may believe it is not being correctly done and is not working, but they need to understand that, indeed, the treatment is working, and it requires time, patience, and as many sessions as necessary to achieve the goal.
Good camouflage is one in which, after healing, you do not see the color your client previously had or the color you applied
Remember this phrase: “The client must be willing to persevere through the entire process or decide not to start it.”
I hope that what I do, inspires you for your next Procedure!
Dr. Sandra Cardona
ARTISTS LOVE US
Lightning - Softap Pigment Exfoliator
I've used a variety of saline & alkaline removers in the past, trying to find one that truly works. I was immediately amazed using this on both eyeliner and brows for the first time. NEVER have I seen a lightener actually lift pigment during the process, it's like magic! A must-have in your arsenal.
Black Orchid - 331- Eyeliner Color
My Favorite Softap Pigment is Black Orchid. I use it primarily for my lash enhancements. My clients really love it, and it has great power staying!
Pecan Pie - 740- Dark- Cool Palette
Only pigments I have used since starting my small business 4 years ago. I'm crazy about pecan pie brow pigment! I order it so often!!!
Royal Fudge - 160- Dark- Warm palette
I have bought today two new colors to add to my daily work. Royal fudge and bordeux. I just love these products. The palette of colors are beautiful, the color last more time and my clients are so happy.
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