The eyebrows need to flatter the skin color and bring out the eyes, and of course, they ought to at least somewhat match her hair.
When thinking about the right color for my client’s eyebrows, not only I think about her natural hair color, her natural brow color, and her skin tone, but also take into account that many of my clients color their hair, and plan on continuing to do so—probably with different colors.
So how do I plan for this?
I measure the warmth (redness) of my client’s skin tones looking at her skin:
- Is it pale and rosy?
- Olive and tan?
- Deep-hued and dark?
The amount of red in her skin dictates the color palette I should choose from.
Softap has three major palettes from which I select the color:
Cool, Neutral, and Warm and they are further divided into light, medium, and dark. It makes me easier to select the color.
The Cool Palette:
Colors in the cool palette are designed for those who don't like red in their eyebrows.
If my client has a very fair complexion, with rosy hues in her cheeks, I select a brow color from this collection.
Colors in the cool palette can appear ash or green looking, but the red in my client’s skin will warm them to ash and taupe browns.
The Neutral Palette:
This palette contains colors with a little more red in them than the cool palette, but less than the warm palette.
If my client’s skin is fair but not rosy, or darker with less blue undertones, I select a color from this palette.
The Warm Palette:
Warm colors are best for skin with less rosy hues and more olive or chocolate tones like brunettes.
If my client’s skin tans easily, is olive, golden, or black, then I select the color from this collection.
- For Hispanic clients, I stay in warm or neutral palettes for shadow or solid effects, but I move to the cool palette if she wants individual hair strokes.
- For Asian clients, I stay in cool or neutral palettes.
- For Caucasian with blonde hair, I stay in neutral and light cool palettes.
I always do the smear and match test on my client’s skin. I take a little bit of color, apply it to my client’s skin and smear. I see the undertones of my client’s skin blend in with the color, this gives me a real idea of how the color may heal in her skin. The color that I see is the color that I get.
Make color selecting an easy process with the Color Finder App