A Guide for the Permanent Makeup Pro

How to choose a Needle for EYELINER

How to choose a Needle for EYELINER

Authored By Dr. Cardona 16 Comment(s)


There are many different effects that can be created with the SofTap® needles for eyeliner. Tapping in the same place with 30 or so taps will yield a beautiful eyeliner with minimal to zero touchups required. The following needle configurations will explain the various effects that can be achieved for the eyes.

3 prong (purple)

  • The 3 is a round configuration and is an excellent choice for a bottom eyeliner where the client does not desire a lined look.
  • This gives a smudger, softer, "barely there" look.
  • Place color only at the base of the eyelashes and tap 20-30 times at the base of each lash.

10 prong (yellow)

  • The 10 single row needle configuration is an excellent choice for a super fine line.

5,7,9, or 12 prong

  • Best for a thin upper or lower eyeliner.
  • The bigger the number on the needle, the longer the line will be.
  • Some feel more comfortable implanting a shorter line while others prefer the longer line that is created with the bigger numbered needles.
  • Using a 12 prong needle can be more than twice as fast as using a 5-prong needle.

Super Smudger (green)

  • This is a single straight-line needle configuration with every other needle missing.
  • There are 7 needles in this assembly.
  • This is the best needle to use for a soft smudgy look.
  • This will give you a softer look than the round configurations because there is more space in between the needles.
  • This look can be created with a very fine line on the lower lid, or it can also be used if your client desires a smudger look on the outside edge of the upper and /or lower liner.
  • For example, let's say that you do a lash enhancement with the color Mahogany, but the client desires a softer, smokier outer edge.
  • This can easily be accomplished with the super smudger and randomly tapping in the outer 1/3 of the eyeliner area.
  • This can be done with the same color diluted with distilled water, a lighter undiluted color or even with a different color that brings out the eyes such as Jade Granite or Irish Moss for green eyes or Blue Lagoon mixed with a little bit of Pearl for blue eyes.

8 prong (pink)

  • The 8 is a round configuration that is excellent for a thin softer lower liner.
  • This will give you a softer line rather than a straight-line configuration.

15 prong (red)

  • The 15 round is excellent for a medium/thick softer lower liner, but most popular for a soft upper liner.

18 prong (dark purple)

  • This is a round configuration that is excellent for a medium, but dense soft lower liner.

24 prong (turquoise)

  • This double row of 12 needle configuration is best for an upper or lower eyeliner where the thickness desired is slightly thicker than using a single row 12 gauge needle.
  • Also because this is a extra fine gauge needle (8), the color implanted will be more intense and denser than a needle with a 12-gauge thickness.

28 prong (dark blue)

  • This double row of 14-needle configuration is suggested for a medium thickness eyeliner.

39 prong (turquoise)

  • This configuration has three rows of needles set very close together.
  • The 39 is a fantastic needle for thicker eyeliner, particularly medium and thick upper eyeliner.

42 prong (orange)

  • The 42 triple row of 14-needle configuration is highly suggested for use on the upper eyeliner.
  • This seems to be a perfect thickness for most requests on the upper eyeliner.
  • The inner and outer portions of the upper eyeliner can easily be tapered in with a smaller needle that you may use for the lower liner such as a 9 prong or 12-prong needle.

56 prong (dark orange)

  • This quadruple row of 14-needle configuration is highly suggested for use on the upper eyeliner on mature skin.
  • Because so much skin needs to be stretched tightly on older or mature skin, there is a larger area that needs to be filled in.
  • The 56-prong needle accomplished this with great ease.
  • Again, the inner and outer portions of the upper eyeliner can easily be tapered in with a smaller needle that you may use for the lower liner such as a 9 prong or 12-prong needle.

84 prong (salmon pink)

  • The 84 is a 6-row needle configuration of 14 needles.
  • This is a great needle configuration for upper eyeliner for someone who desires a very defined and thick liner.
  • The extra fine gauge gives the density of color while the multiple rows give you width.
  • An excellent needle to use for tapering the inner and outer portion of the line is an 18-prong needle (dark purple).

Credit: SofTap Inc



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Marlene A Mills
Marlene A Mills

Intetested in asking a few questions. Are you a distributor?


Thank you so much Dr Sandra. Im so grateful that I found this website with so much information and explanation. Thank you so much

Jan Lane
Jan Lane

I am so grateful to Dr Sandra for all of the information she shares and I LOVE this website! Without the detailed explanation in each section, I would be floundering a little as there is no official Softap trainer in New Zealand. This site ensures I choose the correct needle configuration and colour for my eyeliners. It is simple and concise to use.

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