HOW TO PREVENT UNWANTED COLOR RESULTS AFTER MICROBLADING

A GUIDE FOR THE PERMANENT MAKEUP PRO

Lately, I'm quite frequently noticing healed microbladed eyebrows with color results that differ from the original pigment selection. In many cases, the color is an undesirable one. Coincidentally, just a few days ago, I met a dear friend who I had not seen in some time. I noticed her recently-done brows had taken on a greenish hue.

While it is very important that the client can participate in color selection, you must first pre-select 2 or 3 colors that you know will achieve the correct results. Skin type and the desired effect will dictate these choices, and from them, your client can make a decision.

Remember, your client most likely doesn't know about this topic. You are the expert, and the client requires your guidance about the best color. Don’t let yourself be swayed. For this reason, it is recommended you do not show clients your color chart. Furthermore, you should also not show the color in the container. Place some pigment near the eyebrows and spread it on the skin to show the healed color of your pre-determined choices.

HOW TO PREVENT MICROBLADED BROWS FROM HEALING GREENISH, REDDISH OR GRAYISH.

When you create individual hair strokes, the color must look as natural as possible. However, quite often the color can turn reddish. This is why many people prefer to use neutral or cool tones. What is often misunderstood with this logic, is that this may result in some of those cool tone selections turning grayish. 

For individual hair strokes you should select shades that mimic the natural color of the hair by following some of the recommendations listed here:

  • For people with skin type 1 (redhead) use warm palette tones;
  • For people with skin type 2 (blonde) use neutral shades like Bashful Blonde or Hazelnut if you want the brows light. Use Fawn or Cappuccino if you want a medium blonde tone;
  • For people with skin type 3 (dark blond or light brown hair), I recommend using a 9:1 blend of Café Vienna and Brown Sugar. Mix it well, and you will get a beautiful natural tone;
  • For people with skin type 4 (dark brown hair), Earth alone, a blend of 9:1 Espresso and Brown Sugar, or 9:1 of Espresso and Chocolate Eclair are ideal choices;
  • For people with skin types 5 or 6 (dark brown or black hair), if the client does not have much brow hair, you can choose between German Chocolate and Café Olé. If enough brow hair is present, Earth or even Mahogany are nice choices. I rarely use Mahogany to do eyebrows, but this is one instance in which this color would look perfect, provided you make very fine and well-defined hair strokes.

The tones above are just some colors that can be used with the correct skin type assessment. They illustrate the alternatives available to achieve optimal results and avoid discoloration.

Microblading procedure

Beautiful upward curving strokes in a soft ombre color!
For this client, we used colors: Espresso, German Chocolate, and Pecan Pie  and Needles: 16 curve and 6 regular Genuline™ needles

I realize there is currently a deluge of new products and product lines on the market, and with artists wanting the best for clients, this can cause tremendous confusion. I recommend that no matter what brand you use, you familiarize yourself with it. Study it. Test it. Draw your conclusions. To illustrate, consider these suggestions:

  • For every treatment performed, take clear notes of the color and brand used and record details of follow-up results. Over time you will develop a series of valid case studies illustrating how specific colors heal/behave on specific skin types.
  • Do not mix colors of different brands, this will confuse you, and you will not be able to accurately assess results.
  • When you mix two colors, be intentional about the goal. Adding tones to specific colors must be to warm or cool the original pigment based on an accurate skin assessment. Without a full understanding of your pigment line and final results on specific skin types, mixing colors in the same palette, in the interest of experimentation, is inadvisable. It is better to use a single color.

To avoid having problems with the selection of colors, I recommend that you review the subject of skin types according to the Fitzpatrick scale and that you use the Softap color selection tool for eyebrows. This will make your job easier, and you will not need to worry about the final result.

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