Factors that Affect Color Fixation and Retention
A GUIDE FOR PERMANENT MAKEUP & MICROBLADING PROFESSIONALS
Blog by Dr. Cardona
FACTORS THAT AFFECT COLOR FIXATION AND RETENTION
I have received messages from customers who have had problems with color fixation, especially people who have purchased pigments for the first time or who use softap colors with other techniques. For this reason it is important to review basic concepts about this topic.
When a client arrives to your office for a permanent makeup procedure, he or she does not have the knowledge of how the pigment behaves. They think that this is an easy process and he or she will look like their friends when they had their Permanent Makeup procedure. But you know that this is not as simple as that.
During the consultation you must inform your client of all the changes that the pigment will suffer on his or her skin in order to avoid misunderstandings, conjectures and especially requests of reimbursements due to premature dissatisfaction. They also need to understand that everybody is different and that the color reacts different in everyone.
In terms of color retention, people may complain if:
They do not see color a week after the procedure. It may be normal, just wait three more weeks before taking any action.
They do not see color a month after the procedure. It may be normal, you can do a touch up.
The pigment does not last long on the skin. Check your technique, color selection, after care instructions, and guarantee policy.
Factors that affect the color fixation and retention: Some of them are under your control*, some are not**.
The skin-pigment relationship**
The after care**
Color selection. You need to select the color according with your client’s skin tone (You can use the Color Finder App).
If you select a very light tone the client wont see it with the intensity he or she wants.
Handling the product. You need to shake and squeeze the tubes at least one minute before you take the color out in order to mix the glycerin and the color substrate. The creamy consistency is very important. If it is too liquid it doesn't work. Remember that the pigments are made with different concentrations of tones and the pigment must be well mixed to have the appropriate percentage of each one of the ingredients and obtain the best result.
Check your technique. If you are doing the procedure using the Softap technique, do three or four passes with at least 10 taps each pass. If you are using a machine or other hand method, do the same number of passes that you do with any other color brand. Remember, when you use Softap colors, you see them with great intensity in the skin very soon and you may stop working prematurely.
The skin/ pigment relationship: The color interacts with the skin during the first month after the procedure. You will see the final result after that, so don't do any touch ups before one month, even if you don't see color or the color looks weird. If after a month you don't see any color or the color is lighter that the desired color, you need to do a touch up, and that is completely normal.
There are very rare cases where the client's immune system does not accept the pigment, rejecting it completely, and no matter how many touch ups you make or which technique you use, you will never see pigment on his or her skin.
It is important that your client knows this during the consultation in order to avoid any complains.
The after care is very important. Please read the After care instructions for your clients blog entry. People who are highly exposed to the sun, chlorine or salt water, glycolic or retinoic acid among other, may eliminate the color faster than people who are not.
The duration of the color in the skin is variable and you can not guarantee it. I always tell my clients that it may stay in the skin for at least 2 years. If it stays longer, fantastic. I also always recommend a touch up every two years to keep the color in good condition.
PS:I created BuyPermanentMakeup.com to make sure that my students and the permanent makeup professional community had the best experience, products and service, along with ongoing education and content.
NEW COLOR FINDER TOOL
Click on the Color Finder Button. The Step by Step Color selection tool for Eyebrow Permanent Makeup & Microblading
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