All of us who do Permanent Lip Makeup want the perfect candidate for Permanent Makeup, which is a person with pink lips, a perfect shape, and pale skin so that the color we apply is the color we get; however, this is far from reality.

Often we find cases like the following: a person of Skin Type IV who has his lips with a tendency to brown and who wants pink lips. It means that she has a blue undertone in her lips. What to do in cases like this?

The first thing we should do is having an honest conversation with the client and explain what we may not be able to meet their expectations due to the natural tone of their lips since a brown color is not easy to change merely using a pink tone.

To perform this procedure, what I recommend is to apply a base with Orange Aid by making one or two passes to neutralize the blue subtone. Once neutralized, you can use an orange-pink shade like Mango Obsession. If the tone of your client's lips is light brown, a single neutralization session is sufficient, and you may apply the Mango Obsession during the same session. Otherwise, I suggest you apply Orange Aid during the first session and the Mango Obsession in a second one, one month later.

How to know if your client has a bluish subtone?

Usually, people who have dark or brown lips have a blue undertone. The undertone is an essential factor that determines the final result. It interacts with the pigment that you apply on the lip, modifying it.

To determine the lip undertone, ask your client to stretch her lips so you can carefully examine the color that is beneath the skin. People may have pink, blue, or brown undertones. Everyone has natural blue undertones in their lips, but some have more strong blue undertones than others.

In general, women with skin types 1, 2 and 3 have more pale and rosy undertones with a little blue. In those cases, I select the color according to my client's preference, and the procedure that I will be performing with this color (a lip liner, a full lip color or an extension) 

• Women with skin type 4 tend to have rosy and blue undertones. To counteract the blue, I select a color that has a little more orange on it.
  
• Women with skin types 5 and 6  have more brown and blue undertones. To counteract the blue, I select a color that has a little more orange in it. However, if she wants to intensify her natural brown color in her lips, I use one of the brown colors from the warm palette.

In order to select the color, just imagine it mixed with the undertone that your client has in her lips.

Choosing the right color for permanent lips is not a simple task, this is actually a process.  You need to understand how the pigment interacts with unique skin tissue and all of the factors that are involved in defining the final result. This includes the technique and the number of sessions. In general, it takes 2 or more applications to achieve the desired result. 

 

The Softap® Palette For Lips:

There are many brands in the market. Each one of them has different color characteristics, as well as distinct color charts. This is why you need to get familiar with the color chart of the brand that you use. In addition to the creamy consistency, another characteristic of the Softap permanent lip colors is its soft tones.

These colors come in four groups:

• Mauve/Pink

• Orange/Pink

• Brown/Pink, and

• Red/Pink

You will also notice that there are colors that belong to a particular collection called the "Imposter Collection." Those colors are intended to match anyone's lip color. The results are so realistic that everybody thinks that this is your client's natural lip color.

• Mauve/Pink: These colors are great for pale, ruddy, and rosy complexions, where there is a lot of warmth present.
• Orange/Pink: These colors are suitable for everybody and are the best for women with blue undertones who like warm colors. 
• Brown/Pink: Excellent for those who do not normally wear bright lip colors, and like a more relaxed, earthy look.  Note that if your client already has a lot of brown or a strong blue undertone, her skin may turn these colors browner and darker. 
• Red/Pink: Even though these colors look great on all skin types, from my experience, they can turn purple if the lips have a strong blue undertone.  

 

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Permanent Makeup of Lips is one of the procedures that requires the most knowledge on color, technique, and design because a simple mistake is very noticeable. My recommendation for you is: work with perfection in mind to get the most beautiful lips in every client.