How to make a permanent makeup touch up correctly
In my Permanent Makeup practice, some of the most common appointments scheduled are for touch-ups from clients who got their eyebrows done years ago with another person. When the client calls to make the appointment, the usually say “It's almost nothing, it is just a retouch” but in many cases it is not just that
Since color changes over time as a natural process, for me, a retouch means "a correction”. During the consultation it is important to establish that if you are doing a touch up you can not be 100% responsible for the final result, because you are working on a pre-existing basis.
When you see that your client arrives with reddish, bluish, grayish or violet eyebrows you can not simply apply a brown color on top. If you do it, the color that she had, will appear again. For this reason, you must neutralize it before applying the desired brown color. Of course there are more complicated cases where you need to modify the shape as well, but this is another topic of conversation.
In general terms, you must remember that you have to neutralize a color with its complementary color. In the color wheel, the complementary colors are opposite each other:
- Red is neutralized by green
- The blue is neutralized by orange, and
- Purple is neutralized by yellow
Thinking about these characteristics, Softap created the Correction Aid colors:
- Green: Lime-Aid- It is best for neutralizing red or orange tones.
- Orange: Orange-Aid- This is best for neutralizing a blue or gray color.
- Yellow: Lemon-Help in those cases when your client has multiple colors in her eyebrows.
Note that if the color was reddish, after applying the Lime Aid you should apply a neutral or light cold tone, while if it was bluish or grayish, you should apply a warm tone after the Orange Aid, the same as if the color was purple.
If the color is light, in the same session you can do both the neutralization and the application of the brown color, whereas if it is a dark tone or the texture of the effect is solid, you must apply the correction color, and in one or two more sessions, you may apply the brown tone you want.
You can do one session every 2-3 weeks. I need to emphasize that the technique that should be used for neutralizing colors is shading or microshading, not microblading.
If your client needs to modify the form, that is a subject of correction for an expert. If you have the knowledge and the expertise, go ahead, but if you DO NOT have the knowledge, I recommend that you NOT commit to do the work, remember, your name will be out there and if the result is not good, it will be a negative review for you.
Another recommendation, if the shape is not well designed, do not touch it up because you are enhancing the difference.
If your client has a solid or a shadow effect in her eyebrows and wants to do the touch-up with the microblading technique, you will have to
set the expectations very well. In that case you need to explain to her that it is possible that you need to do several sessions before you achieve the effect she wants. I have seen microblading work on shadows of previous eyebrows and the base color stands out generating an effect that doesn’t look natural.
Next time you receive a call from one of your clients asking for a touch up, remember two things:
- Do not give a price before a personal evaluation.
- Think that you have to do more than you imagined.
Click on the Color Finder Button. The Step by Step Color selection tool for Eyebrow Permanent Makeup & Microblading
