WHEN I DO LIPS, THESE ARE 5 IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS
- My client’s lip color preference
- Her lip undertone
- The procedure she wants
- The softap palette for lips
- The smear and match test
1. My client preference
- I ask what are the colors that she prefers in her lips: Mauve, pink, orange, brown or red. It just gives me an idea of what color I need to get at the end.
- This will be the product of mixing the color I select with the undertone she has.
2. Her lip undertone
- Everyone has natural blue undertones in their lips, but some have more intense blue undertones than others.
- To determine this I just ask my client to stretch her lips and look for the undertone.
- In general, caucasian women have more pale and rosy undertones.
- Asian and Latinas have more blue undertones and African American have more brown and blue undertones.
- To counteract the blue or brown undertone I select a color that has a little more orange.
- For an extension:
I select a color that looks like her lip color from the imposter collection. My client can not tell where her lip ends and the imposter color begins. The result of this kind of procedure has a very high success rate of color holding. I usually do 2 sessions to get the best result. If my client also wants a lip liner I use a darker color from the same collection during the second session.
- For the lip liner:
If she just wants to define the shape with a natural color I select a color that looks like her lip color from the imposter collection collection. This is the simple way to redefine or reshape her existing lip. If my client wants to add more color to her lip border I select a non imposter color darker than her natural lip color.
- For full lip color:
I select a lighter color for the inner part and a darker color for the lip liner according with her color preference.
4. The SofTap® palette for lip - Colors are divided into four groups: Mauve/Pink, Orange/Pink, Brown/Pink, and Red/Pink.Included in this classification, there are 6 colors named “The imposter collection”.
Mauve/Pink: These colors are great for pale, ruddy, and rosy complexions where there is a lot of warmth present.
Orange/Pink: These colors are best on Asian and Hispanic skin types with blue undertone who like warm colors.
Brown/Pink: Excellent for those who do not normally wear bright lip colors, but like a more relaxed, earthy look. Note that if your client already has a lot of brown or an intense blue undertone, her skin can turn these colors browner and darker, so choose an orange/pink to compensate.
I don’t recommend Peaches’N Cream, Jamaican Rum and Havana Girl for a full color in a client with these characteristics.
Red/Pink: Even though these colors look great on all skin types, from my experience, they can turn purple if the lips have an intense blue undertone. The imposter collection is a classic collection of 6 lip colors that will match anyone’s own lip color. The results are so realistic that no one knows that it’s not your clients own lip.
- I smear the color on and rub it into her lip. This gives me a better idea about how the undertones will affect the final result of the color.
- Sometimes a color that looks perfect for her on paper looks wrong in person, and sometimes a color you never paid attention turns out to be the one.
- Usually it takes me 2 applications to achieve the desired result. This is something that I alway discuss with my client during the consultation.
I hope what I do will inspire you for your next Procedure!
Take a look the SofTap collection of colors, needles and accessories to enhance your practice.
Talk soon,
Dr. Sandra Piedad Cardona
Email: Info@BuyPermanentMakeup.com
Phone: +1(510)423-3014
PS: I created BuyPermanentMakeup.com to make sure that my students and the permanent makeup professional community had the best experience, products and service, along with ongoing education and content.
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